Традиция и мода (Преходни форми от традиционната народна носия към европейско облекло)
Tradition and fashion (Forms of transition from traditional folk costume to European fashion)

Summary/Abstract: The author has the purpose to outline the dynamics of development of costume of city population in Bulgaria at the end of 19th and the beginning of 20th century. The study is following the different stages in the costume between the traditional urban clothes with national character in the Revival period and appearance of fashionable European costume influenced by the most avanguard fashion centers in Europe at that time. The comparison between tradition and fashion in urban conditions of Bulgarian city is the main subject of investigation. The basic material is some field work information, collected by the author in 1989-1990 and documental sources of National Ethnographical Museum in Sofia - originals, photos and archive material. The problem is of special interest of comparing the way of functioning of especial women's costume with some relics of traditional superstitions and folk beliefs in maternity and wedding ritual and custom system. The differentiation of values in tradition and in the fashion is possible to be understood only by understandness of their functions in urban society. These functions are changeable and have their own dynamics.

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