FEMINITATE SI MODA LA SFÂRSITUL SECOLULUI AL XIX-LEA SI ÎNCEPUTUL SECOLULUI XX. CONSIDERATII PE MARGINEA UNEI COLECTII DE PLANSE DIN PATRIMONIUL MU
FEMINITY AND FASHION AT THE END OF THE XIXTH CENTURY AND BEGINNING OF THE XXTH. CONSIDERATIONS ON A FASHION PLATE COLLECTION FROM THE PATRIMONY OF T

Summary/Abstract: The 180 fashion plates that were at the basis of the study offered the possibility to capture the spirit of a period concerning fashion. Idea confrontations specific to the period, also visible in the vestimentation, mirror an end but also a beginning of epoch (1895-1915). The period imposed as one of the most fascinating in the history of Europe, in which the intellectual attempted seriously to reinitiate the higher values of the spirit and sensibility. It was the period when haute-couture affirmed, when fashion houses appeared, the period of the first inovations in what today is fashion presentation. We refer to la Belle Époque until the first world war broke out, when attitudes and life styles of the two decades were removed, attitudes and life styles that yet awake nostalgia. It was a period in which the new was searched also in the women’s fashion, by promoting a new conception on the beautiful, starting from an austere line, specific to 1885-1890, passing through a phase of glamour and grandeur in the following years, when “S bend” silhouette and the Edwardian style imposed, so that finally, especially after the broke out of the war, attention was concentrated on finding simple and functional solutions, by creating a more natural feminine line. War imposed man the new priorities, all subordinated to survival. Under the circumstances in which men were enrolled, the majority of women were forced to bear the responsabilities from behind front. Social events were postponed in favour of more urgent engagements and need to mourn, the increasing number of the dead, visits to the wounded and general gravity of times imposed a simple, functional line and dark clothes in women’s fashion.

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