ЕВОЛЮЦИЯ НА ЛОКАЛНИТЕ РЕТИНОИДИ В ДЕРМАТО КОЗМЕТИКАТА: ИНОВА-ЦИИ И ТОКСИКОЛОГИЧНА ОЦЕНКА
EVOLUTION OF TOPICAL RETINOIDS IN DERMOCOSMETICS: INNOVATIONS AND TOXICOLOGICAL EVALUATION

Summary/Abstract: Retinoids are a group of biologically active derivatives of vitamin A that exert significant effects on cellular differentiation, proliferation and inflammatory processes in the skin. They are widely used as active ingredients in anti-ageing dermocosmetics, due to their ability to stimulate cellular regeneration, contribute to collagen synthesis and support epidermal keratinisation. Classical retinoids are characterised by limited chemical stability, photolability and a potential for cutaneous irritation, manifested as erythema, desquamation and increased sensitivity during prolonged use. Their susceptibility to oxidative degradation may affect the therapeutic effectiveness of dermocosmetic products and procedures. In recent years, the development of a new generation of retinoids has aimed to enhance efficacy and tolerability by reducing undesirable cutaneous reactions. These innovations seek to optimise dermal delivery of active substances and to minimise irritation without compromising biological activity. The aim of this review is to analyse contemporary innovative retinoid formulations used in dermocosmetics. A systematic literature review was conducted using the PubMed, Scopus and Web of Science databases. Clinical studies, systematic reviews, toxicological assessments and regulatory documents relating to retinoids used for dermocosmetic purposes were included. The synthesised evidence indicates potential risks associated with the application of vitamin A, underscoring the need to comply with current European restrictions on its concentration, as well as that of its derivatives. Substantial progress has been achieved in the development of stabilised retinoids and in the introduction of novel derivatives with improved tolerability. Modern retinoid formulations allow efficacy and safety to be optimised, supporting a balanced approach between clinical benefit and toxicological risk. Evidence from review publications suggests that the latest innovative retinoids are stabilised and formulated for controlled release, which reduces irritation and enables long-term use without compromising the intended effectiveness.

• Details
• Contents