Облеклото на интелигенцията в големите български градове 1878-1912
The costume of Bulgarian intellectuals in the big Bulgarian cities. 1878-1912

Summary/Abstract: The changes in the costume of the intellectuals in the big Bulgarian cities after the Liberation are demonstrating the acceleration of the started in the Revival period process of becoming European costume. A leading role belongs to the foreigners on Bulgarian service, Bessarabian Bulgarians and to Bulgarians, educated in Middle and West Europe. The production of clothes and costume from domestic home ctaft quick by becomes professional work. Great changes happened with the socio-significant functions of the costume. The signes of age, sex and social status of individual, so characteristic for the traditional folk culture had been exchanged by signes of professional and political belongings. The intellectuals accepted uniforms, sport costume, seasonable examples and fashionable accesories. The European type of costume is supposed to be considered as a sign of belonging to a higher cultural system and there for the intellectuals encourages its usage in wide social groups. But also the western fashion accepted is in some stage adapted into "Bulgarian" style. At the same time the traditional Bulgarian costume is appreciated because of its ethnic significant functions and its high aesthetic value and is looking for its place in Bulgarian city.

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