Costumul bărbătesc din zonele etnografice Maramureș și Oaș: „mitologii naționale”, origini, evoluție, morfologie și simbol. Sec. XVII- XX (partea I)
The Traditional Male Costume from Maramureș and Oaș Ethno-Cultural Regions: „National Mythologies”, Origins, Evolution, Morphology and Symbolism. (17th - 20th Centuries). Part One

Summary/Abstract: It was immediately after the Second World War that the costume from Maramureș and Oaș regions drew the attention of the specialists in ethnography and traditional art. In the same period, Romanian nationalism reclaimed the value of this traditional costume. Until the instauration of the communist regime, the profile of the peasant from these two regions was vague and partially unknown to the Romanian intellectuals. The first part of the study deals with the role of the male’s costume in the Romanian protochronist discourse. I demonstrate how it evolved from a hazy image emerging during the 19th century, to a hypothetic and falsified „Dacian costume” able to contribute to the Romanian nationalist discourse during Ceaușescu’s rule. In the next three sections of the paper I refer to the design and the evolution of this costume, emphasizing the local, unique and differentiating elements. I particularly insist on the attire’ elements that were borrowed from different ethnic groups and various geographic areas which finally had an influence on the Maramureș and Oaș Romanian costume.

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