Öltözködés és identitás a 17–18. századi Erdélyben a viseletsorozatok tükrében
Painted Costume Series. Clothes and Identity in Seventeenth-and Eighteenth-Century Transylvania

Summary/Abstract: The paper studies hand painted, subtitled costume series from seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Transylvania from the angle of fashion history. Deák first briefly introduces the least known of such series: the costume book from the University Library of Graz, the series of the Library of the Brukenthal National Museum in Sibiu, the 116-piece series held at the Romanian Academy Library; and the shorter series at the Lipperheide Costume Library of the Kunstbibliothek in Berlin. The images feature typical members of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Transylvanian society. As the social status of the depicted persons was of utmost importance, their outfits were designed to express their status as accurately as possible. In addition to the clear indication of class, the images were also expected to reflect the internal stratification within social groups. The costume series not only met these expectations but also served as a medium to transmit and perpetuate them. Besides indicating rank, the depicted outfits also provided information about their wearers’ occupation, gender, marital status, age and occasion, as well as national or regional identity. The handpainted costume series provide a glimpse into typical articles of clothing and accessories, as well as the use of textiles, colours and the level of decorative detail.

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