Mezcal and Mexicanness: The Symbolic and Social Connotations of Drinking in Oaxaca
Mezcal and Mexicanness: The Symbolic and Social Connotations of Drinking in Oaxaca

Summary/Abstract: This article discusses the symbolic and social connotations of mezcal and its consumption in the rural communities of Oaxaca in Southern Mexico. Mezcal, a traditional drink in this region, is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from a particular type of agave called maguey. Based on the author’s intermittent fieldwork in the indigenous Zapotec villages of Oaxaca since the late 1990s, the article will scrutinise the local discourse on mezcal, the meanings attached to the drink, and the consumption of mezcal in ritual and social contexts. As the article will demonstrate, an anthropological perspective on mezcal enables us to approach the drink not simply as an alcoholic beverage among many others, but as a very specific cultural construct that is part of a distinct drinking culture. Consuming mezcal in rural Oaxaca is a social act: the collective drinking of mezcal contributes to a sense of community and belonging. Mezcal also serves as a summarising symbol, to use Ortner’s term, which metaphorically captures the character and essence of being a serrano (highlander). On the other hand, drinking mezcal can also serve as a marker of social divisions and group boundaries. Consumption and non-consumption of mezcal largely coincides with the boundaries between social groups based either on gender or on religion. The article will close with a brief glimpse at recent state level endeavours to construct mezcal as Mexico’s national drink, often building on its local meanings.

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