Накитът в средновековния български костюм през XIII—XIV век
Jewellery in the Mediaeval Bulgarian Costume of the 13th—14th Century

Summary/Abstract: A considerable amount of jewellery, varied in form and decoration, has come to light in the course of archaeological diggings in settlements and necropoli of the 13 th—14th century (the period of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom). Jewellery is often to be seen in Bulgarian paintings of that period. According to their role in the mediaeval Bulgarian costume, they are divided into two main groups: 1. Part of the garments, or an obligatory element in them, such as buttons, belt ornaments and royal insignia, and 2. Supplementary elements of the costume, such as head ornaments (diadems and sokai, earrings and ear-covers) and ornaments for the body (rings, bracelets of glass or metal, necklaces and medallions, crosses, encolpia and amulets). The data obtained from archaeological studies and paintings show that in the period under review jewellery was an inseparable part of the general composition of the costume. It was functionally linked with clothing, was not subjected to the garment, but helped to shape its aspect or supplemented it and gave a finished appearance to the costume as a whole. In this aspect, jewellery developed in accordance with the general law-governed processes found in the history of the Bulgarian mediaeval costume, reflecting fashion styles, the way of life and social relations in the epoch of developed feudalism.

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