KONYA ETNOGRAFYA MÜZESİ’NDE BULUNAN USTUFA KUMAŞLARI ÜZERİNE BİR İNCELEME
A STUDY ON USTUFA FABRICS IN KONYA ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM

Summary/Abstract: Cloth weaving arose from basic human needs such as covering and protection. Later, weaving began to fulfill these needs as well as for ornamentation. During the Seljuk and Ottoman periods, important periods in Turkish history, fabrics of different qualities were woven for the sultans and courtiers, as well as for the public's clothing. The types of fabrics woven during these periods varied according to social status and economic status. Especially in the 16th century of the Ottoman Empire, as in all other artistic fields, fabrics woven with different raw materials and techniques came to the fore in cloth weaving. During this period, fabrics woven with gold and silver threads were particularly popular among sultans and courtiers. Fabrics woven for the palace, in particular, exhibited a diversity of motifs, as well as the techniques employed. An examination of the fabric motifs reveals a greater use of floral and geometric motifs. During this period, the spread of Islam led to religious prohibitions on figures. Consequently, the use of animal motifs was restricted, leading to an increase in the diversity of floral motifs. With the increased diversity of motifs, the pattern compositions in woven fabrics also became richer. This brought the patterns and motifs within the fabrics to prominence. In line with these developments, Ottoman fabrics attained an even more prominent position in the art of weaving. Import and export records kept by the state's Ehl-i Hiref organizations support this. Ustufa fabrics, one of these fabrics, constitute the subject of this study. Due to the lack of sufficient research on the subject, four fabric samples held at the Konya Ethnography Museum were examined. Based on this analysis, the fabrics' pattern programs, motifs, and compositional characteristics were explained. The motifs on the fabrics were analyzed from an iconographic perspective. A catalog analysis of the fabrics was conducted. The samples were compared with previously researched ustufa fabrics in terms of pattern characteristics. In this context, the general characteristics of ustufa fabric were revealed.

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