RAČUNARSKI KONCEPT PLANA KROJENJA ŽENSKE PELERINE
COMPUTERIZED CUTTING PLAN CONCEPT FOR WOMEN'S CAPE

Summary/Abstract: IT technologies in the clothing manufacturing industry were introduced in the 1980s, significantly reducing the time required for preparation, production, and monitoring.The implementation and rapid continuous improvement of the AccuMark CAD (Computer Aided Design) software system for pattern preparation in clothing production processes offer various opportunities for workflow optimization. These include processes such as pattern design, modeling, remodeling of garment pattern parts, completion, grading, creating alternative clothing sizes, generating cutting plans based on work orders (Easy Plan), creating pattern images for checkered fabrics, pattern images for fabrics with stripes where the direction of the base is rotated during the finishing process, 3D garment visualization, printing pattern images, generating CUT data for automatic cutting, creating Cut Ticket data for automatic material laying, etc. By using AccuMark 2D software, version 15.1 /GERBER AccuMark 2D/, a workstation has been set up where, before starting the work, the existing files need to be shaped according to the model being created (women's cape), the planned base material for its production, and the technological sewing conditions. File Annotation with basic elements for displaying the marking of pattern parts and pattern images. Lay Limit file with unidirectional material laying in cutting layers and pattern parts of different sizes set in different base directions. The Cvik file includes a flat stitch depth of 0.4cm. A rule table with alphanumeric markings of sizes, with a base size of 84 and a series of 4 sizes, one smaller than the base (80) and two larger (88 and 92). The cutting plan is designed based on a work order for the production of 106 pieces of women's capes for all sizes in two colors, navy blue and burgundy. The primary material for making the cape is velvet, and the lining is made of viscose. Work in PDS (Pattern Design System) involves shaping from the basic construction, extracting parts from the basic construction, grading, modeling, and completing patterns of the base fabric. The pattern pieces for the lining and fusible interfacing are created based on the patterns of the base fabric. The patterns for all the necessary materials for making the cape have been named. The Model file has been created, followed by the Easy Plan for the velvet width of 150 cm. The results of this plan are presented in a table and diagram for the anticipated work order. A quantity of 50 navy blue capes and 56 burgundy capes is distributed across four markers with a specified number of pieces in cutting stacks based on the anticipated colors of materials and sizes. Easy Plan-1 and 2 each contain 5 cutting stacks for both colors, in specific sizes, while Easy Plan-3 has five navy blue stacks and three burgundy stacks. Easy Plan-4 has five layers of burgundy. For the given fabric width, the most suitable size combination with the highest utilization of 84.52% is achieved in Easy Plan-4, with two sizes, 84 and 88.

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