Mărgău boody shirt — symbol of the women's folk costume from Valea Săcuieului, Connon Huedin. Identity marks of local stitches Cover Image

Cămașa cu trup de Mărgău — simbol al portului popular feminin din Valea Săcuielului, Ținutul Huedin. Repere identitare ale punctelor de cusătură locale
Mărgău boody shirt — symbol of the women's folk costume from Valea Săcuieului, Connon Huedin. Identity marks of local stitches

Author(s): Livia-Gina Morar
Subject(s): History, Geography, Regional studies, Ethnohistory, Local History / Microhistory, Recent History (1900 till today)
Published by: COMPLEXUL MUZEAL BISTRIȚA-NĂSĂUD
Keywords: Body shirt; Huedin County; Săcuieu Valley; Călata stitch; pulled thread; ciupag; spăcel;

Summary/Abstract: The “body shirt” by Mărgău is an important piece of the popular peasant dress from the Săcuieu Valley, with a unique value in Romania. It is known by the homonymous locality, being specific to the entire hydrographic basin of Săcuie. The shirt is made of hemp or cotton, has a white color and millennial antiquity (of Dacian origin). It consists of a single component, from the neck to the ankles. The upper part is adorned with a hand embroidery materialized by “stitching points Călata”, “stitch on thread”, “miezălește”, “penește”, “brânelește” or lănțișor”, etc. The front embroidery is called “spăcel” and is placed on the chest, and at the base of the neck it is framed by a small embroidery (chain). The embroidery is also found on the bottom, at the sleeves. Also on the sleeve, starting from the shoulder, there is a wide embroidery, of 4–5 cm, sewn with “Călata stitch” and highlighted as a band that gives it volume. The whole ornamental set is completed by the cuff folds, called “fodori”. The hem of the traditional costume show embroideries specific to the place, of the bobat stitch type(“with bobs”), of circles called “scumpuțe” or of “broken embroidery” (with holes). In the upper part, mountainous, of the Săcuieu Valley, the type of Călata seam predominates, and in the lower part, at the outflow in Crișul Repede, Bihorean influenced embroidery on drawn thread is specific.

  • Issue Year: XXXV/2021
  • Issue No: 34-35
  • Page Range: 201-226
  • Page Count: 26
  • Language: Romanian